Design solutions for conscious and sustainable fashion consumption
From Firenze University Press Journal: Fashion Highlight
Laura Giraldi, University of Florence
Marta Maini, University of Florence
Francesca Morelli, University of Florence
FASHION, CONSUMPTION AND CONTEMPORARY VALUES
The consumption is one of the main drivingforces of the global economy, while it continuesto impact the health of the planet (Giannetti et al,2023). In recent years, the fast fashion phenomenon has emerged as a central issue connected to sustainability, positioning it as the second most environmentally damaging industry after the oil one (Bailey et al., 2022). This has led to significant global challenges in managing textile waste, as the majority of textile products are discarded in landfills, despite their potential for recycling and reuse. The phenomenon of compulsive shopping among consumers has expedited an over production and consumption cycle of goods, especially during the 2020 — the covid period -, largely due to various platforms and companies offering free returns (Maraz et al., 2022).Often consumers are not completely aware of the unsustainability of the fashion industry, mainly due to the poor and misleading brand communication about the production, the supply of raw materials, the manufacturing process, the transportation, the use, and disposal of clothing. The greenwashing practices, employed by some companies to appear more sustainable than they actually are, contribute significantly to the ongoing perpetuation of the issue (Peña et al., 2023) distorting the public perception regarding the severity of environmental problems thereby indirectly contributing to the exacerbation of the ecological crisis.The public attention is increasingly critical towards the fashion industry and much more careful to the environmental impact of the different fashion brands. The acts of denunciation against the fashion industry are countless and increasingly forceful, including those from figures within the fashion system itself. One example is Junk, the docuseries co-produced by Will Media and Sky Italia with Matteo Ward, CEO and co-founder of WRÅD, benefit corporation and design studio dedicated to sustainable innovation and social change, but also former senior manager of Abercrombie and Fitch. Circular economy principles are becoming increasingly important in this sector, known for its significant environmental footprint, urging for necessary sustainable reforms (Hugo et al., 2021). In 2018, the industry was responsible for emitting 2.1 billion tons of greenhouse gasses, accounting for about 4% of worldwide emissions (Berg et al., 2020).The spread of globalization has greatly exacerbated the issue of excessive consumption in fashion (Diddi et al., 2019). According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation report (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017), approximately $500 billion are lost annually due to garments that are only worn a few times before turning into waste without being donated or recycled. This trend in clothing consumption stems from various factors, among which the fast fashion industry1 plays a prominent role by offering an increased number of new clothing collections every year at very low prices. The significantly cheap costs come from the exploitation of people and the environment2, a problem which has drawn scrutiny to the fashion system and sparked the ongoing trend reversal.The attractiveness of the fashion system is notably high due to its communicative value. Clothing has been serving as a privileged channel of communi-cation for the younger generations since the 1960s (Giraldi, 2022), conveying messages, values and ideas in which people recognize themselves. Moreover, clothing reflects hopes, social and personal attitudes, and stances. Therefore, garments are laden with immaterial and connotative messages.Currently, fashion system clothing expresses social values tied to inclusion, acceptance of diversity, and social commitment, among others, mostly representing Gen Z thoughts and attitudes. These values reflect the growing awareness of social responsibility and inclusivity among young consumers, prompting them to seek out brands and products that align with their values and beliefs3.Consequently, the industry faces a growing call for the adoption of eco-friendly practices in response to its adverse effects (Kim et al., 2021), prompting a call to action for immediate change (Berg et al., 2020). In this context, the United Nations Department of Economic and Social Affairs for Sustainable Development strives to mitigate the adverse environmental and social effects associated with the fashion industry (Garcia-Ortega et al., 2023). Specifically targeting Sustainable Development Goal 12 Responsible Consumption and Production, the United Nations seeks to decrease waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling, and reuse, while urging companies to embrace sustainable practices (i.e. produce less to recycle less).The shift towards sustainability is influencing new generations’ views on the fashion industry, reflecting a new societal mindset (Gazzola et al., 2020). Several elements, including the rise of digital technology and shifting generational dynamics, have fueled the expansion of new trends of fashion consumption. Particularly, consumers from the newer generations (Gen Z and Millennials) exhibit a heightened focus on sustainability compared to Generation X and the preceding ones (Gazzola et al., 2020), showing a greater inclination towards alternative consumption types over traditional fast fashion brands. These new consumption choices are necessarily impacting the contemporary fashion industry landscape, influencing the communication strategies of fashion brands, which often are rethinking their policies in order to reach and be chosen by new generations. In this context, the paper aims to examine the current most popular consumption trends carried out by new generations and the resulting shifts in communication design strategies adopted by several fashion brands to face this new fashion market landscape. Moreover, the research investigates how the new values shared by Gen Z through social networks are changing the fashion market and prompting the adoption of more conscious and future-oriented business practices by several fashion brands.Furthermore, the ultimate goal of this paper is to underscore the strategic importance of design in fostering new development opportunities within the contemporary panorama of the fashion industry. Innovative design products such as virtual spaces and digital platforms, showcases their pivotal role in delivering a delightful and sustainable fashion consumption experience. Through insightful analysis and examination of notable examples, this paper aims to highlight the transformative power of design in shaping the future of fashion consumption.
DOI: https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2714
Read Full Text: https://riviste.fupress.net/index.php/fh/article/view/2714
