Our fashion habits: A gen-Z feedback on ecodesign strategies for use-phase

From Firenze University Press Journal: Fashion Highlight

Claudia Morea, University of Florence

Silvia Gambi, Independent researcher

The European Commission’s “European Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles” aims to ensure that all textile products on the EU market are durable, repairable, and recyclable by 2030. This initiative includes implementing strategies such as new branding services, Digital Passport, Extended Producer Responsibility, and consumer engagement. Despite Generation Z’s sensitivity to environmental and social sustainability issues, they also demonstrate a marked addiction to fast-fash-ion. Consequently, the European Commission is focusing on consumer involvement, particularly targeting the purchasing habits of Generation Z. Although efforts to mitigate the environmental and social impacts, the fashion industry have struggled to counteract the effects of increased consumption. Fast-fashion remains prevalent, characterised by low product quality, recurrent consumption, impulsive buying and creating a sense of urgency and fulfilment (Anguelov, 2015; Heuer, 2018). From 1975 to 2018, global per capita textile production has doubled from 5.9 kg to 13 kg per year, with fashion brands now producing almost twice as much clothing as before 2000 (Niinimäki et al., 2020). Meanwhile, the wear-time of garments has decreased by 36% since 2005, with evidence of impulse purchases particularly prevalent in the UK and Norway (Laitala, 2018). A JRC study revealed that Italy has the worst purchasing habits among European countries (Köhler, 2021), with high textile consumption per inhabitant. In response, the “Reset the Trend” campaign was launched in 2023, targeting six priority countries, primarily focusing on young people addicted to fast fashion. This paper provides an overview European strategy for the sustainable fashion industry, emphasising the importance of consumer behaviour during the product life-cycle, especially among Generation Z. A survey titled “Our Fashion Habits” investigates eco-design strategies at use-phase level, targeting students pursuing a Bachelor’s Degree in Textile and Fashion Design at University of Florence (UNIFI). The focus target is being investigated because it identifies a type of public interested in sustainable fashion, who intends to delve deeper into the topic of eco-design. The results of the survey demonstrate how difficult it is for consumers interested in the topic to find information that allows them to transform the intention to make informed choices into sustainable purchases and behaviours. The study highlights a gap in translating eco-design strategies into consumer behaviours and concludes with recommenda-tions for promoting sustainable practices and emphasising the importance of product ownership.

GEN Z ATTITUDES

For the European Commission, consumers play a pivotal role in steering the market, with good tools for informed decision-making forcing brands to adapt (EC, 2022). Research indicates a growing global awareness among consumers, transcending generational boundaries, regarding fair labour practices, resource scarcity, and environmental protection (Beltrami et al., 2019). Beltrami (2019) states that two-thirds of consumers express a willingness to change, avoid, or boycott brands based on their stance on controversial issues, with about half identifying as passion-driven activists. The author continues that 66% of consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable products, and 37% of Gen Z consumers seek information on product contents and production methods before purchasing, often relying on reviews and articles. Additionally, nine out of ten Gen Z consumers believe companies bear the responsibility to address environmental and social issues, advocating for greater brand involvement in social campaigns such as #metoo and #blacklivesmatter. Report suggests that while eight out of ten Italians desire information about the origin of raw materials in fashion production, behavioural changes remain elusive (Heiny et al., 2021). Despite efforts to promote transparency and sustainability in the fashion industry, studies (Amed et al., 2023) suggest a gap in consumer understanding of what constitutes sustainable practices and products, inconsistent sustainability claims erode consumer trust. Overall, further research is needed to understand the nuances of consumer behaviour, particularly among specific demographics such as Italy’s Gen Z population. Addressing these gaps can inform more effective strategies for promoting sustainable fashion practices and enhancing consumer engagement.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2616

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