The Phygital Evolution: Digitization of Historical Fabrics from Prato

From Firenze University Press Journal: Fashion Highlight

Andrea Quartu, Università degli Studi di Firenze

The research project Prato Phygital explores the development of a fabric digitization procedure and its subsequent application in dynamic models, culminating in their representation in interactive digital environments. The project, with the synergistic collaboration of designer groups with diverse expertise, aims to digitize ten fabrics, five of which are sourced from the historical archive of the Prato Textile Museum and the other five from Marini Industrie Spa company’s archive. Prato Phygital delves into a territory that is still in an experimental phase and seeks to identify new methodologies for the enhancement and redesign of heritage within one of the most significant textile districts — Prato. The proposed digital transformation also offers new horizons of application for fabrics in various contexts ranging from fashion to product design, art, and even gaming, including gamification approaches (Tufarelli et al., 2022).From Physical to Digital FabricFrom Physical to Digital FabricThe first phase of the research focused on a thorough study of the processes involved in the production of fabrics made through Jacquard and dobby looms. This phase analyzed all the stages encompassing the weaving process, starting with essential knowledge of textile fibers and yarns, fabric analysis (composition and manufacturing), interlacing, color effects, twists, warp and weft notes, drawing-in and drafting, weaving, and interpretation of technical specifications. This initial part was crucial for the subsequent digital reconstruction of the selected samples, simplifying the subsequent operations. The selection of fabrics took into account both the historical and cultural significance as well as the technical feasibility, with the Prato Textile Museum focusing on the former and Marini Industrie SpA considering their heritage by digitizing some archival fabrics no longer in production, along with aesthetic patterns that represented their distinctive brand.The second phase involved the digital transformation of the selected fabrics using NedGraphics, one of the leading CAD software for digital fabric design.The third phase encompassed the development of multilevel maps using Materialize software. This program allowed for the overlaying of multiple images with different characteristics, resulting in a simulation of the digital fabric that closely resembled reality.The final phase involved the representation of the fabrics in digital environments through the design of iconic products in the world of design, such as statues, chairs, and cars, as well as the creation of a fashion collection. In this concluding part of the project, a redesign process was initiated, revisiting the original patterns in terms of colors and dimensions.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2271

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