Unstitched Narratives: Cultural and ecological significance of Desi Oon in Rajasthan and Himachal Pradesh

From Firenze University Press Journal: Fashion Highlight

Megha Chauhan, Nottingham Trent University

Pramila Choudhary, Concordia University

INTRODUCTION: SHARED TEXTILE HERITAGE

Author 1 and Author 2, PhD researchers based in the UK and Canada, have come together to explore their shared heritage and the environmental importance of unstitched desi oon textiles from Rajasthan and Himachal Pradesh, India — specifically pattu. After more than a decade in India’s craft-based textile industry, we recognised a significant academic gap concerning these textiles, which are deeply rooted in local biodiversity and cultural practices.For us, these textiles represent more than just garments; they are cultural legacies that bring forth childhood memories, where the texture and feel of wool were intimately tied to their experiences of community, land, and belonging. However, these traditional textiles are being replaced by synthetic, petrochemical-based fabrics that are cheaper, lighter, and more widely accessible. This shift threatens cultural heritage and poses environmental risks through microplastic pollution and the disintegration of community-based, land-centric textile practices. A key driver of this research is the recognition of desi oon’s critical role in India’s economy and biodiversity. The rise of synthetic textiles has significantly impacted India’s indigenous wool industry, reflecting broader political and economic shifts that threaten local ecosystems and pastoral communities (Das & Iyengar, 2021). This paper traces the journey of pattus made of desi oon from its origins in the harsh landscapes of the Himalayas and Thar Desert to its transformation into textiles and beyond. Pattus stand out for its adaptability and cultural relevance. As unstitched garments, they can be customised for personal expression while preserving their traditional warmth and functional-ity. Historically, pattus have protected communities from the harsh desert heat of Rajasthan and the cold mountain climates of Himachal Pradesh, symbolising the interconnection between humans, animals, and the environment. We view desi oon as an ‘active material’ (Ingold, 2013) that mediates relationships between humans, animals and the land, shaping cultural, environmental, and economic landscapes. We aim to contribute to a nuanced understanding of fashion’s materiality and its entanglement with human and non-human actors. Our research builds on both personal and professional inquiries, as we revisit the textile traditions passed down within our families. These unstitched woollen garments, embedded in our familial and regional heritage, serve as a lens through which we explore the broader themes of materiality and sustainability.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2981

Read Full Text: https://riviste.fupress.net/index.php/fh/article/view/2981